Most fish that jump are trying to escape something. The silver arowana is different: jumping is how it feeds. It hunts along shorelines and through flooded forest, and supplements its limited diet of aquatic prey by leaping out of the water to take terrestrial and tree-dwelling animals.[1] Stomach-content studies show that insects and other arthropods make up the bulk of what it eats,[2] and wild arowana have even been caught with rodents filling their stomachs.[3] A fish built to launch itself at anything that moves above the surface does not lose that instinct in an aquarium.
That changes how to think about the problem. Asking whether jumping is "normal" gets a yes; the useful questions are whether the tank can contain the jumps, whether something is triggering far more of them than usual, and whether the fish has already hurt itself. An arowana that lands on the floor can die quickly, and one that repeatedly hits a lid can injure its jaw, eyes and scales. Deal with the lid first, then work through the triggers below.
Why Do Silver Arowana Jump? The Common Causes
Hunting Instinct: Built to Leap for Prey
Most LikelySilver arowana are surface feeders. The mouth points sharply upward, which lets the fish take prey from below while swimming just under the surface, and it also jumps out of the water to feed on large insects such as beetles.[4] Accounts of the species in the wild describe fish waiting near the shore and leaping to take large insects, other fish and small birds from low branches.[5] A study that filmed arowana feeding found that they open their mouths unusually wide during a leap, which may help them hit prey whose position is distorted by the water surface.[1]
In an aquarium the same behaviour fires at a hand over the tank, a moth at the light, a feeder fish at the surface or simply the approach of feeding time. Aquarists who keep them describe arowana leaping at the slightest hint of food.[6] This is the reason every experienced keeper treats a secure lid as essential rather than optional. A healthy, well-kept arowana will still jump; the aim is to make sure it never lands anywhere but back in the water.
Fright: Sudden Light, Movement or Noise
Most LikelyThe second trigger is fear. Arowana are known to leap out of aquariums at a hint of fear as well as food, and these jumps are the ones that cause serious injuries and deaths.[6] Common triggers are the room light or tank light switching on in a dark room, someone walking quickly past the tank, a door slamming, a hand reaching in, and netting or chasing the fish during maintenance. Light and sound are both recognised physical stressors for fish.[8]
Fright jumps tend to happen at predictable moments — lights on in the morning, cleaning day, a busy room in the evening — and are more violent than feeding leaps. A fish that is kept in too small a tank has less room to turn away from a threat and is more likely to go straight up.
A Tank Too Small for an Adult Arowana
PossibleSilver arowana are sold at a few centimetres long but grow to about 90 cm in total length and up to around 6 kg.[4] A long-bodied fish that size cannot turn comfortably in an ordinary aquarium, and keepers report that arowana in cramped tanks become restless, nervous and picky, and that the same fish calm down noticeably in far larger tanks or ponds.[6] Crowding and a lack of swimming space are recognised stressors that affect behaviour and immunity.[8]
If your arowana jumps more as it grows, the tank has probably become too small. The long-term fix is space — a tank several times the fish's length and at least as wide as it is long — not simply a stronger lid, although you need both.
Poor Water Quality or Low Oxygen
PossibleFish that are short of oxygen gather at the surface and try to gulp air,[7] and a large predator eating meaty food produces a lot of waste. Ammonia and nitrite both stress fish, and fish affected by nitrite toxicity seek out oxygen-rich areas and pipe at the surface.[7] An arowana that spends more time right at the top, breathes fast and jumps more than usual may be responding to the water, not to prey.
Warm water holds less oxygen than cool water,[7] so the risk is highest in a heavily stocked tank at the top of the arowana's range. In a healthy tank ammonia should always read zero; any measurable ammonia means the filter cannot keep up.[10] Test before you assume the jumping is behavioural.
Tankmates, Parasites or Skin Irritation
Less CommonLess often, the arowana is being harassed. Aggression and territorial pressure from other fish are listed stressors,[8] and an arowana pestered by a fin-nipper or a fast cichlid may bolt upward. Watch the tank for a few minutes at different times of day before ruling this out.
Skin and gill parasites cause fish to flash — dart and rub against objects — and some affected fish lose their appetite and become lethargic.[9] A jumping arowana that is also scratching on decor, breathing fast or showing cloudy patches on the skin should be checked for parasites rather than treated as a behaviour problem.
How to Work Out Why Your Arowana Is Jumping
Start with the lid, then use a few days of observation and a water test to find out whether the jumps are normal hunting, fright or something wrong with the tank.
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Check the lid for any gap the fish could get through
Look at every opening: filter and heater cut-outs, feeding hatches, the gap at the back for cables, and the joins between glass panels. An arowana will find the smallest gap during a hard jump. Check that the lid is heavy or clipped down, because an adult can lift a loose cover. Aquarists who keep arowana recommend weighting the cover down.[6]
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Record when the jumps happen
For two or three days, note the time and what was happening just before each jump. Jumps around feeding or when a hand or insect is above the water are hunting; jumps when a light comes on, someone walks past or the tank is being cleaned are fright.[6] This tells you which triggers to remove.
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Test the water and watch the breathing
Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature. Ammonia should read zero,[10] and the arowana's range is roughly 24 to 30 °C.[4] Watch the gill covers: fast breathing with the fish hanging at the surface suggests low oxygen or poor water rather than normal hunting.[7] Test immediately whenever behaviour changes.[10]
Recommended: Water test kit and thermometer -
Inspect the fish for injuries after a jump
Look closely at the lower jaw and barbels, the eyes, and the scales along the back and sides. Split lips, missing or lifted scales, cloudy eyes and red marks are signs the fish has been hitting the lid or has been out of the tank. Any break in the skin or lost scale is an opening for infection,[8] and skin damage makes it harder for a fish to keep its fluid balance.[9]
How to Stop a Silver Arowana Jumping Out
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Fit a heavy, fully sealed lid today
Cover the whole tank with a solid glass or acrylic lid, or a rigid screen under a hood, and block every cut-out with foam or mesh. Weight or clip it down.[6] If you cannot seal it immediately, lower the water level several centimetres as a temporary measure so the fish has less momentum at the surface and further to go to reach the rim.
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If the fish has jumped out: return it and watch for infection
Pick it up gently with wet hands or a wet towel, supporting the whole body, and return it to the tank at once. Keep the lights off for a few hours so it can settle. Handling strips protective mucus from the skin,[8] so check the water is spotless and watch daily for cloudy skin, red patches or fungus-like growth at any wound over the following week. Internal injuries may not show at first; a fish that lies on the bottom, stops eating or swims abnormally after a fall needs a vet.
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Remove fright triggers
Turn on the room light before the tank light, or use a light with a gradual dimming start. Place the tank away from doors and walkways, or cover the back and sides so movement around the room is less visible. Avoid chasing the fish with a net during maintenance, since handling is itself a major stressor.[8]
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Correct water quality and oxygen
Increase surface agitation or aeration, do partial water changes until ammonia and nitrite read zero, and review filtration for a large, heavily fed predator.[10] Keep the temperature within the species' range and stable rather than at the very top of it, since warmer water holds less oxygen.[7]
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Plan for the adult size
If the arowana is outgrowing its tank, the only lasting solution is a much larger aquarium or a pond. A fish that can swim freely jumps less from stress, and keepers report the difference is dramatic once an arowana has real space.[6] Until then, keep tankmates calm and avoid anything that harasses the arowana.
Preventing Jumping Injuries in Silver Arowana
When a Jumping Arowana Needs Expert Help
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This guide was researched against the veterinary and scientific sources listed below and reviewed for biological accuracy. Test water parameters before treating a sick fish, and consult an aquatic veterinarian if symptoms persist after 48 hours of correct treatment.
References
- Lowry, D., Wintzer, A.P., Matott, M.P., Whitenack, L.B., Huber, D.R., Dean, M. & Motta, P.J. (2005). Aerial and aquatic feeding in the silver arawana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum. Environmental Biology of Fishes 73(4): 453–462. doi:10.1007/s10641-005-3214-4
- Freitas, P.H.L. de, Bussons, M.R.F.M., Bussons, I.N.B., Dias, F.V.N., Garcês, L.M., Sousa, E.S. & Oliveira, A.T. de (2025). Feeding Ecology of Osteoglossum bicirrhosum (Osteoglossiformes: Osteoglossidae) in a Central Amazon Reserve. Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências 97(2): e20241121. doi:10.1590/0001-3765202520241121
- Verba, J.T., Lima de Oliveira Borges, M., Ferreira da Silva, M.N., Costa Pinto, L. & Rabello Neto, J.G. (2018). Mice on menu: opportunistic feeding behaviour of the Amazonian silver arowana Osteoglossum bicirrhosum. Journal of Fish Biology 93(1): 132–133. doi:10.1111/jfb.13665
- U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (2017). Arawana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) Ecological Risk Screening Summary. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, revised August 2017. fws.gov
- Birchmeier, K. (2000). Osteoglossum bicirrhosum (Arawana). Animal Diversity Web, University of Michigan Museum of Zoology. animaldiversity.org
- Lim, T.K.L. The South American Silver Arowana. Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine. tfhmagazine.com
- Merck Veterinary Manual. Environmental Diseases of Aquatic Animals in Aquatic Systems. Merck & Co., Inc. merckvetmanual.com
- Francis-Floyd, R. Stress—Its Role in Fish Disease. UF/IFAS Extension, Circular 919 (FA005). edis.ifas.ufl.edu
- Merck Veterinary Manual. Disorders and Diseases of Fish. Merck & Co., Inc. merckvetmanual.com
- Francis-Floyd, R., Watson, C., Petty, D. & Pouder, D.B. (2022). Ammonia in Aquatic Systems. UF/IFAS Extension, FA16. doi:10.32473/edis-fa031-2022